Saturday, May 2, 2009

Book Review: Beadwork Inspired by Art, Art Nouveau, Jewelry and Accessories by Judith Durant and Jean Campbell

Beadwork Inspired by Art
ART NOUVEAU
Jewelry and Accessories
by Judith Durant and Jean Campbell
I have owned and enjoyed reading this fine and thoughtful jewelry design book for several months now. I believe that the Art Nouveau movement is quite complex and difficult to understand. Fortunately Judith Durant and Jean Campbell have paired together successfully on other beadwork books (one was another "art inspired" book I recommend, Impressionist Jewelry), and are able to make clear what might be complicated to grasp.
The Art Nouveau movement, popular at its peak during the 1880's up through the early 1900's, not only reacted against the influence of Industrial Revolution, it embraced it, as many of the aspects of the actual buildings designed at the time and the decorative Art Nouveau styles could only have been made possible by the new techniques of the Industrial Revolution itself. This is pointed out by the authors of this book.
I am only disappointed that an Aubrey Beardsley project was not included in Art Nouveau. Otherwise I find it great! The Laburnum bracelet, which is influenced by a lamp designed by Louis Comfort Tiffany, is stunning, true to its origins, and drenched with the earthy color of semiprecious stones and bronzed components. The Lalique earrings are charming and elegant in crystal and gold. The Metro Station earrings are fabulous and teach the reader, in excellent fashion, at least two new types of wire working if you are a newbie.
The cover piece is so Parisian, sexy, and so representative of the famous nightclub, Chat Noir, for which the bracelet is named, I expected a French Quarter nightclub show when I opened the book. Live your dreams!
As Art Nouveau style has a lot of meaning for me, with its rich organic heritage and its sensuous
vine-y power (after all, it influenced all the 1960's-70's psychedelic posters, when I was young), I am drawn to this finely researched and well orchestrated book. The projects are lovely and cool, including the one accessory piece, an amazing and outstanding beaded vase after The Kiss by Klimt. One project that took my breath away: The Galleries Lafayette Dome Pendant. If you have ever had the opportunity to stare up at that dome, you will be in awe at what the authors have managed to accomplish in replicating, with great care, drama, and love: the beautiful ceiling of the Galleries Lafayette, which was built in 1912.
If you love Art Nouveau, try this book. It is terrific.

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